A Filipino Kitchen & The Barbuto Cookbook
A Filipino Kitchen and The Barbuto Cookbook
During these frigid winter months in Minnesota, comfort food is the holy grail in my kitchen. Thus, the books that I reviewed for this month are A Filipino Kitchen by Adam Tabura and The Barbuto Cookbook by Jonathan Waxman. Both cookbooks are brimming with attractive photos and recipes for soul soothing dishes. The experiences that propelled these two chefs to make the culinary sphere their life’s work are as diverse as the ingredients found in between the pages of the two books. Both authors treat readers to an inside look into their passion for food, culture, and storytelling via their cooking.
Chef Adam Tabura cinched his fate the age of seventeen on the island of Lanai in Hawaii, where he heroically made the choice to rescue a man who was drowning in Manele Bay. Because Adam’s quick actions meant this man had a second chance at life, the gentlemen showed his profound gratitude by fully investing in Adam’s dream to attend culinary school. After graduation, Adam went on to appear on the Great Food Truck Race on the Food Network. Winning the show opened the doors to a myriad of new opportunities for Chef Tabura to cook for and educate diners regarding traditional Filipino cuisine. He currently works as a much sought after private chef and has launched a business called the Manele Spice Co. His Hawaiian rock salt spice blends can be used on a broad variety of dishes and/or barbecue and they are available nationwide. He continues to partner with his brother Lanai Tabura, and his best friend, Shawn Felipe, bringing local comfort food to the community via The Aloha Plate food truck.
“Chef Adam Tabura stands at the forefront of this movement to share the joys of a locally evolved Filipino food culture with others.” “Although I am half – not full- Filipino, I have a very deep appreciation for the Filipino culture, he says. It shapes who I am today, not only as a chef but as a person as well.” ~ Both quotes are from the intro to A Filipino Kitchen: Filipino Food in Hawai’I Comes of Age
FYI: Adam Tabura’s cookbook was chosen by the new Bookclub Restaurant chef, Dunstan Pinlac. Dunstan is Filipino and will be creating dishes for the restaurant menu inspired by this cookbook. Keep your eyes on the Bookclub menu for details!
Chef Jonathan Waxman received his Grand Diplôme from La Varenne Cooking School in Paris. He launched his legendary career by moving back to California and working at Domaine Chandon and Chez Panisse (owned by the renowned Alice Waters.) In 1979, he went on to become the executive chef at Michael’s in Santa Monica, curating his own interpretation of California cuisine, utilizing fresh, locally grown ingredients. Chef Waxman’s list of subsequent restaurant ventures includes the opening of Jams at 1 Hotel Central Park, he is the Chef/Owner at the helm of Barbuto, and the owner of Baffi in Atlanta, just to name a few. Chef Waxman has a full catalogue of outstanding accomplishments: In 2016 he won the James Beard Award for Best New Chef: New York City, he was a guest judge on seasons 9 and 11 of MasterChef, in 2010 he appeared on Bravo’s Top Chef: Masters, and Bravo’s Top Chef: Masters of Deception. This list only scratches the surface of his achievements.
“Jonathan exemplifies what it means to be a chef, just as Barbuto embodies what the word restaurant means: to restore body and community” quoted from the foreword in The Barbuto Cookbook, written by Marcus Samuelsson.
A Filipino Kitchen: Traditional Recipes with an Island Twist
Authored by Adam Tabura
Photography by Kaz Tanabe
Culinary focus: Filipino Food in Hawai’i
Published by Mutual Publishing in October 2016
Page count: 160
Photos of completed dishes: Many have vibrant images accompanying the recipes, but not all.
The dishes in the book are “rooted in Hawai’i’s plantation days. In this book you will find classic favorites as well as reinvented Filipino dishes for the contemporary table” (quoted from the intro) Sections are broken down by identifiers like: Beef (Baca), Chicken (Manok), From the Reef to the Buoy (seafood), Chef Adam and friends, which includes traditional recipes from friends, fellow chefs and more.
Information regarding kitchen tools/ingredients: There is a helpful photographic guide to Filipino produce on page 150 and a glossary on pages 154-155.
Dishes cooked: Up-Country Short Ribs and Sautéed String Beans
The short rib marinade was made up of mirin, white vinegar, sugar, ginger, ground red pepper, and salt. The slow cooking process yielded tender, delectable results. The caramelization from the sugar combined with the vinegar and spiced red pepper made every bite abundantly flavorful. I served the sautéed string beans with ground pork alongside the ribs. The combination of fresh beans, ground pork, garlic, onions, and cherry tomatoes made it a great tandem dish.
Cook’s note: I neglected to ask the butcher to cut the ribs into one-inch pieces and due to the strength of the bones, I was unable to do it once I got home. So, what you see in the photographs of the final dish are full sized short ribs, instead of one-inch pieces as called for in the recipe.
The Barbuto Cookbook: California – Italian Cooking from the Beloved West Village Restaurant
Authored by Jonathon Waxman, foreword by Marcus Samuelson
Photography by Ken Goodman, Jen Davidson, Jeffrey Prehn, Kathryn Richter, and Danielle Corkery.
Culinary focus: An exceptional synthesis of Rustic Italian and modern California cuisine
Published by Harry N. Abrams in September 2020
Page count: 320
Photos of completed dishes? Most recipes are accompanied by beautiful, hunger inducing images.
The sections are broken down as follows: Pizze, Antipasti (includes soups), Salads, Primi Pasta, Risotto and Grains, Fish and Seafood, Poultry, Carne, Contorni ~ Vegetables, Sauces, Oils, And Pestos, Cocktails, and Pastry.
Information regarding kitchen tools/ingredients: The index is on page 313. A 2-sided sheet accompanies the book. One side has metric conversions and volume to weight for commonly used ingredients. The other side has corrections and clarifications that were necessary after publication. Make sure to look for this sheet if you order the book (do not accidentally throw it away as it is very helpful.)
Dish cooked: Pasta Carbonara
This recipe was easy to follow, and the result was a divine, crave-worthy bowl of pasta. The crispy bits of guanciale, al dente spaghetti and the sauce made of egg yolks, pasta water, pecorino Romano cheese + exactly 8 turns of the fresh pepper grinder made for the perfect Sunday dinner. Many of the recipes in the book are reminiscent of the menu items at Barbuto Restaurant, and I look forward to working my way through many of them!
If you go…
Address for Barbuto Restaurant in NYC:
113 Horatio St,
New York, NY 10014
(212) 924-9700
Book Club thought questions for the reader:
How often do you embark on travel inspired by food or books?
Does food take on an elevated importance for you when know the history of its origin?
Please comment and share your most loved cookbooks. Be sure to tag Book Club Restaurant in your posts on social media if you are inspired to create and share dishes from the cookbooks featured on the blog.
Do you have a list of “go-to” cookbooks and recipes in your kitchen?
Book Club Restaurant would welcome the opportunity to host your next book club gathering. If you are looking for a place to gather and discuss what you are currently reading, this is the spot. Call to reserve one of the cozy spaces for your discussion at (612) 822-5411.
Coming soon to the Book Club menu: dishes inspired by these cookbooks.
About Lisa Patrin
Book Club Restaurant, guest cookbook review blogger
Lisa Patrin is a Minnesota based recipe creator, food writer, and global traveler. She is the author of The Empty Nesters Kitchen blog and the recently released Eat Your Words puzzle book: 125 Food & Beverage Themed Puzzles for Hungry Minds. She is passionate about bringing attention to important sustainability and food justice issues and she strives to promote and support local restaurants, farmers, and food producers. Lisa is an avid cookbook collector and looks forward to taking Book Club blog followers on inspiring journeys into the exciting and diverse world of global cuisines & food cultures via her cookbook reviews.
You can follow Lisa's blog at emptynesterskitchen.com You can also stay connected to Lisa's local and global food & travel experiences on Twitter and Facebook at The Empty Nesters Kitchen and via Instagram @emptynesterskitchen and @emptynesterskitchentravels